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now I've talked about making bows out of PVC before and i have two that I've made. comparing the work knowledge and time it take to make one of them verses a wood bow its a no brainier that PVC wins in a situation. now for pvc bows their is really only one guy to turn to. he literally wrote the book or should i say three books on it. now he's come out with a whole new level of bad ass, take a look.

In case you where wondering. Yes, i have an erection! and he'll be posting a tutorial on it too. so... there's that.

 

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I am on my iPhone right now. So I will have to catch the video when I get home. And it was due to your last post that I got curious about the whole PVC bow thing and got one in the works now. So I can't wait to see this video.

cool do a vid when you finish your bow man.

Will do bro. Will do.

(LOL)  It's cool. I like it. (LOL)

   So how much did it cost to build??

   That's including the fiberglass rods inside the pipes??

   I heard him say the pipes held the fiberglass rods. Around here in my neck of the woods the fiberglass rods would be at least $40 bucks.

   And it looks as though he used at least $150 dollars worth of PVC piping. At least here in my area that's what it would most likely run. A full stick of even 1/2 inch water pipe PVC runs $23 bucks.And here a stick is like 8 or 10 foot long... And it looks as though he used 1 or 2 inch piping. one stick of even 1 inch PVC pipe runs damn near $30 bucks. It looks like he used about 20 to 25 connectors, and those I know run $3 bucks a piece unless they're the T connectors and those run $4 to 5 bucks a piece...(LOL)  So if we went by the prices around my area, you're looking right around $200 bucks, that's going by the prices around here...So the $200 dollars for the cost of materials around here, I think I would and could get 2 really good hunting bows...

   Around here PVC piping is high...Even those who do plumbing, like some of the guys I work for cash under the table, they ain't coming of no scrap pieces or connectors very easily...(LOL) 

   It's a good idea...I like it...And during the Z-poc, I could see people getting the stuff to make these...But if you live in West Tennessee, the best thing to do before hand is to get a good bow...The pricing they have on shit around is way to high for making something like this...And around here, you can walk into just about any sporting goods store and pick 2 bows up for the pricing of creating one using PVC...(LOL) That's unless you are a plumber...(LOL)

   But i can see this being part of someone's arsenal if they know who and where to get the materials...Just where I live it wouldn't be easy in getting the parts or scrap pieces needed...So in my neck of the woods it would easier to find a drunk who's got one and give him a couple of beers for the one has...(LOL)

Good find...I liked it...

in my neck of the woods. PVC is relatively cheap and plentiful. but i would rather have a few made up in advance where i could use a heat gun to shape them with. what this guy did is nice work. but in my opinion he made it way to strong. a 25 to 40 pound draw is more then enough to punch through the human skull. hell, even the bows that the Mongolians used on horseback didnt go over 30 pounds of draw weight and made a very impressive head shot kills. anything 70 and over is best used for a crossbow. but i do agree he did a good job on it. i would be more impressed with it if it were PVC pipe only and not fiberglass used in the construction of it.

look up his other videos, this was made for a contest to make the most powerful zombie destroyer. that bow he first showed thats PVC one piece heated. most of his bows are made that way, this was a fun little bit of as the title states overkill.

jess man thats highway robbery here you can get a ten foot length of any pipe for like 3 bucks. you know what i bet it is. the heat pvc is thermal plastic. the sun and heart warps the shit. hell you cant even use it for hot water. i guess thats why its rare and there for valuable. the connectors are what kill you. i could probably make this for 50 60 bucks. and bows are rare here so, not a bad deal. 

I think it's just depends on your location...(LOL) But I got a little 18 pounder bow right now, I'll be working on getting a crossbow and a full compound bow with about an 80 pound draw...But hey, I can get something cheap around here that are like fucking gold in others....(LOL)  But it's cool....

   But I am going to look at seeing if a 1/2 inch water line will work for making arrows...May have to figure a way to stiffen it a little, but that'll be something to work out after I get the strong bows.....

you know what they say about shopping and real estate. LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION. lol

lol  

;-)

and finally the long awaited how to of this monster bow.

Here's the first part of the OVERKILL build along. This one is pretty straightforward, basically a parts list combined with a dry run of the basic assembly. Here's a written list:

Parts List
20, 2in long pieces of 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe
2, 5.25in long pieces of 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe
4, 3.375in long pieces of 1" Schedule 40 PVC pipe, sanded to fit over 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe
12, Tee (T) connectors (3/4" nominal size) sanded to fit over 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe
3, Tee (T) connectors (3/4" nominal size)
2, Cross connectors (3/4" nominal size) sanded to fit over 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe
3, Cross connectors (3/4" nominal size)
8, Elbow connectors (3/4" nominal size)
2, 4ft lengths of 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe
2, 9in lengths of 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe
2, Straight connectors (3/4" nominal size)

You will also need:
4, 4ft lengths of 5/16" diameter fiberglass driveway markers
2, Straight-bristled toothbrushes
Glue (hot melt, epoxy, non-solvent)
Duct tape
Paint of choice
Body armor and some other PPE such as gloves, helmets, hard-hats, goggles, face-shields, riot shields, heater shields, greaves, chainmaille, etc..
Courage

There's the list. Sanding the inside of the pipes and connectors is pretty simple. Some sandpaper wrapped around a dowel or 1/2" PVC pipe works really well. While it can take a while, after the first few I figured out what worked best and all the sanding took about 20 minutes to half an hour.

Next we will be making the captive arrow rest.

In this part, we'll be making a captive rest for our bow with a cross connector and some toothbrushes. This rest works well for most types of fletching, though larger and rigid types such as FOBs and integrated APDs will require a larger opening and full length bristles.

While the rest of the bow is no-heat, you will need a heat source to shape this rest. If you do not want a centershot bow, you could leave the cross connector intact and shoot against it as you would a normal longbow. The top of the connector can be flattened to bring the arrow closer to center if you decide to go that route. Keep in mind the bow will be much less forgiving of various arrow spines.

Next we'll put the limbs together and get the bow finished up.

In this final part, we'll be driving the fiberglass rods into the 4 foot long pipes and then assembling the bow. I already went ahead and painted all the parts except for the main pipes. If you paint the main pipes (4ft and 9in) first, it will be pretty much impossible to get everything to fit together, especially with glue. Do not use a solvent-based glue or the bow will most likely begin to crack once the glue is cured.

This video goes over how to make the fiberglass bow cores. Follow the same directions even though the pipes for OVERKILL are only 4 feet long. http://youtu.be/rmxn-nPNhY8

As a side note, the various open-ended connectors can be used for all sorts of things. Be creative! By using a 3/4" pipe as a base, you can attach any number of things including stabilizers, camera mounts, fishing reels, swords, firearms, laser pointers, scopes, water purification systems, hiking spikes, weather vanes, and much more!

this was nice for the contest he was into. but in my opinion its still overkill. i would save that kind of poundage for a crossbow.

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