YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE...MAYBE TWICE!
Moose/Bear Repellent aka FLAME THROWER
Moose/Bear Repellent aka FLAME THROWER
Step 1: Choose the fuel supply and material for the fuel chamber
PIC#2 I checked a copper tubing handbook and found the size of copper tube that's inside diameter most closely matched the outside diameter of the butane supply I was using, which happens to be 1-1/2 inch type "L" tubing. I cut an eight inch length of the 1-1/2" type "L" copper tubing. I Purchased a 1-1/2 inch end cap to fit over one end of the tube and another 1-1/4 inch cap to fit inside the tube.
PIC#3 The end of the nozzle on the butane supply is stepped.
PIC#4 A hole for the butane nozzle must be placed in exact center of the 1-1/4 inch end cap. To find center I painted the inside of the cap with a black marker and allowed the ink to dry.
PIC#5 Coiled up scotchbrite pad rotated gently inside the 1-1/4 inch cap to remove the ink.
PIC#6 If done as described you should have a mark dead center. Drill that mark with a 1/16 inch bit followed by a bit just large enough for the butane nozzle to pass through until it contacts the first step on the butane nozzle.
Step 2: Fabricating the fuel chamber parts
PIC#2 Scribed a line from the center of the cutout to the opposite end of the tube and marked a center location 1-1/4 inch from the tube end. Transferred the center mark 120 degrees in both directions and drilled all three locations with a 1/16 inch bit, followed by a 1/8 inch bit and finally a counter sink.
PIC#3 The 1-1/4 inch end cap was too long to fit the butane cylinder correctly so I shortened it to 3/4 inch long. I inserted it open end first into the end of the tube with the three holes until it was 5/8 inch inch from the end. Then marked the location of the three holes in the tube onto the 1-1/4 inch end cap. Drilled those three locations with a 3/32 inch drill and followed with a #6-32 tap.
PIC#4 Drilled two 1/16 inch holes 180 degrees apart, 90 degrees from the center of the slot and 3/4 inch from the closed end of the 1-1/2 inch end cap.
PIC#5 Drilled a hole in the end of the cap with a #29 drill bit and chased it with a #8-32 tap. the location isn't critical just needs to be centered in the slot.
PIC#6 Ran a #8-32 x 1 inch screw into the hole previously threaded and marked all the threads protruding with black paint.
PIC#7 Removed the screw and chucked it in a drill motor, ran the drill full speed while holding a small file against the threads I marked with black paint until they were removed.
PIC#8 Taped the 1-1/2 inch end cap to the fuel chamber tube to transfer the two holes in the end cap to the tube. Then ran through with a 1/16" drill followed by a 1/4" drill.
PIC#9 I cut a piece of 3/4 inch copper tube 5/8 inch long and fish mouthed one end with a drum sander to fit the contour of the fuel chamber tube. This will be the fuel chamber mounting boss.
PIC#10 The four main parts of the fuel chamber.
PIC#11 Soldered the mounting boss to the fuel chamber, assembled the fuel chamber and end cap with a 1/4 inch x 1-3/4 inch hitch pin.
PIC#12 Time to slide the 1-1/4 inch end cap in place and secure with three #6-32 x 1/4 inch screws.
PIC#13 I drilled a 7/32 inch hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and attached the ceramic insulated ignitor electrode with a #10-24 x 3/8 inch machine screw, flat washer lock washer and nut. I then drilled a 3/16 inch hole 180 degrees from the first hole 1/4 inch from the end of the tube and fastened a ground electrode fashioned from a paper clip with a #8-32 x 1/4 inch long machine screw and lock nut through this hole.
PIC#14 For asthetic purposes I capped the end of the fuel chamber mounting boss with a nylon cap.
Step 3: Building the grip frame
PIC#2 Glued it all up with Titebond wood glue. Held the pieces in alignment with 1/8 inch cotter pins and spring clamps until the glue set.
PIC#3 The right side frame is glued up from three layers, the left side eight layers. This facilitates easy disassembly and reassembly. The 1/4 inch oak dowel was cut slightly long to be trimmed after final assembly. Also the dowel is only glued to the left side. Both sides were held together while the glue set to hold the dowel in alignment.
PIC#4 This picture shows the placement of the cotter pins used to hold the left and right sides together as I rounded the right side edges( bottom) on the router table. Used a 1/4 inch round over bit.
PIC#5 This shows the completed grip frame assembled for the first time. I used #8 x 3/4 inch screws.
PIC#6 I drilled a 1/8 inch diameter hole in the center of the grip frame and glued a 1/8 inch diameter x 3/4 inch tension pin to engage the mounting boss soldered to the fuel chamber.
PIC#7 I cut a 1/2 inch long piece of 1-1/2 inch x 1-1/8 inch x 1/8 inch aluminum angle to secure the rear of the fuel chamber to the grip frame. Drilled two 1/8 inch holes through the 1-1/8 inch leg 1/2 inch apart and attached to the grip frame with two #6 x 1/2 inch wood screws. Then measured to locate the hole for the pin which protrudes through the rear of the fuel chamber and grip frame and drilled a 3/32 inch hole at that location.
Step 4: Action parts assembly and adjustment
PIC#2 Before assembling I removed all sharp edges with 220 grit sandpaper.
PIC#3 I used 1/8 inch diameter tension pins 5/8 inch long to allow all the parts to pivot. I inserted the shanks of drill bits to hold the parts aligned as the glue set (super glue), applied the glue only to the ends of the pins so the parts pivot as intended.
PIC#4 This is the left side grip frame with the action parts and ignitor in place. I inserted a fuel cylinder in the fuel chamber, assembled the fuel chamber, left side grip frame and right side cover to test the timing, trimming the ignitor push rod untill satisfactory timing was established.
PIC#5 The completed action assembly. As you can see quite a bit of the ignitor push rod had to be removed to time the ignitor and fuel cylinder.
Step 5: Making a spark
PIC#2 This is the cap that contains the battery and push button contact in the ignitor body. To keep the grip frame as slim as possible I removed the flange around the base of the cap with a Dremel and drum sander.
PIC#3 To secure the ignitor to the grip frame I simply screwed the cap to the ignitor body sandwiching the bottom of the grip frame. It only needs to be finger tight to hold it securely.
PIC#4 I attached the ignitor electrode to the fuel chamber with a #10-24 machine screw, flat washer and lock washer. The ground wire will be attached to the fuel chamber under this nut.
PIC#5 Final step before test firing, I shortened the wire harness that was part or the pulse ignition and attached one wire to the ceramic insulated electrode and grounded the other to the fuel chamber. Time to gather a video camera and a fire extinguisher and go outside.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by KOMRAD RHINO☭ on
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there is an easier way to repel moose or bear and not burn the woods down. take some jalapeno peppers and some habanero peppers. boil them in water and let stand over night. put the pepper water in a super soaker and you have the ultimate home made bear mace and deployment method that has a fifty foot range. sooo cool. did this myself. had a pack of wild dogs in my area but the cops wouldnt allow anyone to shoot them and they couldnt track them. so i made the mix up and put it in my super soaker and waited. when they came out. i ripped loose with the juice. they had no problem tracking them then. you could hear them howling for days. lol. when they found them. their eyes and noses were almost swelled shut. below are pictures of what you need.
1 SUPER SOAKER
1 DOZEN JALAPENO PEPPERS
1 DOZEN HABANERO PEPPERS
now here is an important note. when you cut up and boil the peppers. LEAVE IN THE SEEDS. the seeds in these peppers hold the most heat of the peppers. let them boil for an hour and a half then let stand over night. in the morning. run the pepper mixture through a strainer to get the pure pepper juice water. load up the water tank of the super soaker with this stuff and when the time is right. LET 'ER RIP!!! the secret is not only the jalapeno peppers. its the habanero peppers. they are like a super hot pepper where as the jalapeno peppers are just second on the list. so combining the two into a potent tea will blind even a grizzly bear. habanero pepper juice in a concentrated form has been known to leave a 1st degree burn on the skin. so i know this will more then work on bear or moose. if you want the mixture stronger. add more of each pepper.
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Permalink Reply by Jessie W. Garrett III on
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Cool idea...
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I thought about this after reading it, it's cool and would probably work, but I was thinking more along the lines of clearing a massive meadow or wooded area if infested with walkers, stenches, biters and even those of the living that would try and cause you harm....
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novel idea. however that cover you want to burn down can also help you hide and get away in if need be. also the flip side to the idea. fire is one element you cant really control. now light up a stinker along with the foliage and you could end up burned up with it because you have a walking bonfire. the pepper mix however is more controllable. if you have a human attacker. you can take them alive and interrogate them to find out if there are more and other information as well. and when it comes to outright bears and other natural predators. you save on ammo by driving them off with this mixture. and being an animals senses are way more sensitive then ours. the stronger the mix. the more insured it is to work. way more trustworthy then fire.
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Permalink Reply by saint.357 on
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yeah wild fires are nearly impossible to deal with now,let alone after zombies where there are no thousands of fire crews fighting it. remember in 28 days later when they get to the blockade and the whole city is burning. you don't want to be the cause of that. stick with camp fires.
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exactly my point.
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LMAO!!!! good one.
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(LOL) Now I never said it was a good idea...(LOL) Hell after burning down half a town while burning trash, I'm not to thrilled in using fire for no more then cooking and keeping warm...(LOL) Yes it's a long story I burnt over 7 acres of woodlands, meadows and other things and luckily didn't get a ticket or go to jail...(LOL)
Hell all I can see this being used for is maybe starting a fire...(LOL) Other then that, maybe torching something...(LOL)
I figured someone would like this...(LOL)
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it's cool and may have it's place in burning body's, but tactically its a dude. dont worry i one built a wrist mounted version of this. cool to look at but not much use. unless were dealing with return of the living dead zombies that can only be killed with fire. then its another thing completely.
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i agree with the whole zombie body disposal part. it would be great for that. but i would not want to use it on a functioning zombie.
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