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I'm putting this in the DIY category because this is something we need to know. Even if you have a place that is totally off the grid and you other means of heating your camp, compound or home, you will still need to know how to season certain things, like firewood...Having the knowledge of how things are done will help you and those within your care survive longer then those just taking what we have today for granted...

How to Season Firewood


Fire woodIf you rely on a wood-burning stove or fire-place to heat your home, a fire pit to cook meals, or simply need a reliable back up for emergencies and disasters like zombie outbreaks, major earthquakes, heavy winters, and so on, then you’ll need properly seasoned wood to be truly prepared for self-sufficiency and reliance. This easy-to-follow guide takes the myth and mystery out of properly storing and seasoning wood for use… no matter what you’re battling against.

Self-Seasoned Firewood. By taking the time to properly season firewood, a survivor will be increasing their chances to outlive the undead, along with any other disasters that might some their way. Seasoned wood burns hotter and cleaner than fresh-cut timber which can contain up to 50% water content. It reduces the risk of dangerous creosote build-up, chimney fires, getting smoked out, or the inability to get a good fire going at all.

Soft vs. Hardwoods. Generally speaking, softwoods like pine, cedar, and spruce take approximately 6 to 12 months for proper seasoning, while hardwoods like oak, walnut, maple, and so on require roughly 1 to 2 years. Though, like most aspects of survival and preparedness, there are variations to the general rules, a few things are always certain:

•While outside moisture can evaporate quickly, it is the core of the wood that needs to dry for proper seasoning.
•As firewood dries it reaches an optimum moisture point just before a volatile waxy substance called “esters” begins to evaporate away. That means that wood can be “over-seasoned”.
•Both softwoods and hardwoods put off roughly the same amount of energy for their mass, though hardwoods burn much slower than softwoods, making them better for heating for extended periods of time, or when larger longer fires are needed. Softwoods, are best used for getting a fire started quickly, spreading flames, or small quick fires while on the move.
 
Collecting Firewood. Firewood can come in many forms from downed trees cut and split into fire-pit or fireplace sized pieces, all the way to piles of scavenged natural fuels. However, regardless of where it comes from or how you collect it, proper storage is needed for proper seasoning.
 
•Firewood from deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves annually) should be gathered during the winter months, when their sap is at its lowest accumulation.
•All other woods can and should be collected during the early summer months, when the weather is more conducive to keeping the wood dry and on its way to properly seasoning.
•In needed, firewood should split and/or cut, measuring no more than 6-7 inches in diameter and 16-18 inches long (though smaller is fine). This will allow the wood to season more quickly, and fit into most fire-places and wood-burning stoves.
•Some areas are prone to potentially dangerous creatures like black widows, scorpions, snakes, rats, and so on, taking up residence in downed wood or wood piles. Always use caution and wear thick leather gloves while handling firewood.
 
Storing Firewood. While some people believe that storing wood is as simple as stacking a big pile next to the house. Wood fuels tend to attract insects and rot, two things that you do not want in a survival shelter or home. To keep these unwanted irritations and insects at bay, 
 
•Despite popular belief, covering firewood with a tarp can actually lead to a build up of moisture, making it difficult to season and/or light the wood, and making it prone to rot.
•Wood should be carefully stacked outdoors and off the ground (on pallets, saplings, or similar items) in a cool dry place that allows plenty of air-flow and protection from the elements (see: open-ended roofed shelters, hanging tarps, or other overhead structures).
•Firewood should be stored no less than 30 feet from your home, survival shelter, and/or any wood-based shelter or outbuildings you may have. This helps prevent both insects and rot from damaging anything but the firewood itself.
•Add side supports to the wood-pile as needed. This can be done with pallets staked upright into the ground, saplings stationed at the four corners, or any number of other means… as long as they are solidly placed. Alternatively, fire-wood can be stacked, turning the ends 90 degrees with each new layer.

Knowing When it’s Ready. This simple 3-step process is one of the most efficient ways to test wood for proper seasoning.

1. Take two pieces of wood that appear to be dry, knock them together a few times – listening for a clicking/ringing sound. If the wood gives off a dull thudding sound then it needs a little more time.

2. Look for radial cracks along the ends of the firewood and a lighter paler color in the wood grain.

3. Test burn a piece, look for steam or moisture escaping from the end-grain.

When it comes to heating a home or survival shelter, distribution of the heat and it’s effectiveness has a lot to do with where the heating unit is located and how large the space is, but more importantly: what type of fuel is being used and how much there is to go around. Always plan ahead, expect the best, but prepare for the worst. For more information on properly storing fuels for emergencies see our guide to Storing Fuel For Emergencies.

Fireplace with firewood

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