YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE...MAYBE TWICE!
Post your own homemade gear, (weapons, items, packs, bags, tools and devices, etc).
project blade, owned by addison. carbon steel blank, was purchased cheap and rough, horrible shape, still had the scale on it from forging. buffed, edged, reshaped, gun-blued, with a 40ft paracord woven grip.
finished knife. 20" overall, custom made leather survival sheath. has a place for a ferro rod (near the hilt, not shown) a multi-tool, and smaller pouch for sharpening stone or tinderkit. the space between the pouches is reserved for 550 paracord. dual adjustable nylon belts connect at the waist and have quick release buckles. single thigh strap with same.
total cost of this project, all pieces included, with knife as well:: $78
thank ya! i do alot of leatherwork and figured i'd make sure this one had lot so of extra rivets to ensure it withstood alot of abuse. i like stitching as well, but rivets are easier to repair i feel
leather-work will be a priceless assist to have during any survival situation.
My WarHammer, named "Zom-B-Gone" made from a 22oz Fat Boy Max roofing hammer head, mounted on a fiberglass resin sledgehammer replacement handle. Held together with 3000 PSI impact resistant epoxy (came with the sledge hammer for exactly that purpose) the claws have been sharpened at a 45 degree angle with points at opposite ends. the reason being is a swing can be slightly off angle and still provide effective penetration. with the points together, the slightest error of aim causes the hammer to skip harmlessly off the surface you are striking. (trial and error is always a good thing to learn before you depend on your weapon to survive) The hammer provides enough force for a large male like me (6'3" tall, 285 lbs) to crack a street curb in half with one hit, and the ability to punch a hole through a steel dumpster with one strike of the claws. and yet it weighs next to nothing, less than 2 lbs.
it retains full function as a hammer, demolition tool, and weapon at the same time, with the added benefit of being rugged enough to be used also as a crowbar. i have dismantled an entire wooden fence with this, as well as carved a hole out of the roof of an attic of an abandoned house, and also used it to pry off the boards of the windows of that same abandoned house. (as i stated before, proper testing of your gear before use is absolutely vital)
when you are packing gear to survive, every little bit of weight matters. the easiest way to cut weight is to find gear that is multi functional. here i have not only created an item that is multi functional, but also an item that weighs almost nothing.
I made this Horse-Knife for my goofy looking friend, as shown above. It is a Cold Steel Kukri magnum blade attached to a fiberglass resin axe replacement handle. The blade was full tang with pre-drilled mounting holes, so i took advantage of this and modified the axe handle to sandwich and secure the blade with sturdy locking washers, bolts, and nuts. further modification consists of heating the plastic of the handle to form a tight, secure bond around the tang of the kukri blade. friction tape covering the entire handle provides a secure grip.
This is my Anghola Supreme Kukri that i named "Long Tooth"
it is a 13" blade, (18" overall) carbon steel kukri that is 5/8" thick. it weight 4.4 lbs It is differential tempered and has a rockwell hardness of 57 on the edge of the blade.
BLADE WHEN PURCHASED
i didn'tt like the grip. i felt the finger grooves were not designed for my massive bear-paw of a hand, so i reshaped the grip to fit my hands, and also removed a generous layer of the rosewood grip so that i could paracord the handle. the rosewood was simply too slippery to hold, especially if your hands got wet.
i also wanted to increase the utility of the scabbard. i wanted more carry options on my person, and also the ability to secure and draw the blade one handed. (real kukri's usually require 2 hands to unsheath due to the lock in their design) i decided that i wanted to have the ability to carry it with molle webbing for vests and backpacks, on a belt like normal, horizontally on a belt on the lower back, or slanted, as if on a rapier frog scabbard. i also built in a leather button snap to secure the knife in place so that it would not come loose even when held upside down.
The finished product is not shown here, as i haven't taken more pictures. but the pouch includes a full survival kit. there is 100ft of 550 paracord wrapped around the pouch. there is a built in ferro rod and striker, and the tip has several rubber ranger bands added to it. there is also a hidden area for storage of documents or money. the current variant is no longer in black. i switched all of my gear over to coyote tan, so i rewrapped the handle and replaced the pouch with a coyote tan one.
this has been one of my favorite projects and was definately my go to survival knife for a long period of time. it could handle anything i threw at it. i have since upgrade beyond this blade, but i still tinker with it's concept every now and then.
thank ya. i have more to post, and eventually i will get to posting the firearms collections too
This is a a surplus czech WW2 bayonet that my friend asked me to convert into a survival knife for him. The quality of the steel is good, with a thick spine, and a deep fuller pounded into the blade to give this bayonet a very respectable strength. it holds an edge very well and is built to withstand the roughest treatment, so it's perfect for a survival knife.
i opted to utilize a horizontal back carry system on this project. the ability to utilize a standard vertical carry is still there though. This knife has the original steel bayonet sheath/sharpener still intergrated into it. It is underneath the 50' of paracord wrapped around the body. this sheath has a ferro rod and striker (not shown) and a small plastic waterproof tube meant to carry water purification tablets (shown). there is also a storage compartment where a steel hack saw and wood saw blade are hidden. The leather belt straps can also be used to attach to the straps of a backpack if necessary.
Here is my homemade knife. I made the knive using a friends machine shop, and hardened them using a homemade charcoal forge (with hair dryer) and quenched with motor oil (It was room temp. oil, I didn't heat the oil first). It was a lot of fun, but some problem occurred: The blade was smooth before the heat treat, but it has some weird patterns after quenching. I didn't know the exact temperature during the heat treat process. I only did the magnet test.
what's the steel made of? that'd prolly explain the patterns. usually you can buff out the quench stains when you do your final sharpen and polish
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