DIY: ZOMBIE STYLE - Wicked Zombies2024-03-29T05:51:28Zhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/forum/categories/diy-zombie-style/listForCategory?categoryId=2826695%3ACategory%3A518995&feed=yes&xn_auth=noMy New "Evil Dead"-Ash Williams Costumetag:www.wickedzombies.com,2016-10-19:2826695:Topic:5603712016-10-19T20:09:35.817Zsaint.357http://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/saint357
<p>Well its that time again my friends, the leaves are turning and the day is fast approaching where we can walk around dressed as our favorite horror characters without getting arrested. I'm speaking of course of Halloween, or horror fans Christmas. this year i have decided to up my costume game as go as one of my favorite B movie hero the immortal ash Williams from evil dead.</p>
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<p>For those unfamiliar with evil dead's ash Williams, may god have mercy on your soul. for the rest of…</p>
<p>Well its that time again my friends, the leaves are turning and the day is fast approaching where we can walk around dressed as our favorite horror characters without getting arrested. I'm speaking of course of Halloween, or horror fans Christmas. this year i have decided to up my costume game as go as one of my favorite B movie hero the immortal ash Williams from evil dead.</p>
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<p>For those unfamiliar with evil dead's ash Williams, may god have mercy on your soul. for the rest of you may know that ash's core outfit is very simple. it consist of a blue dicky's work shirt with pockets on the front. brown pants and work boots. this is what he wore for the first two films. simple boring. its in the later films that he gets the accessory that turn him from wimp every man protagonist to a one handed killing machine. starting of course that most famous of gardening tools turned killing machine the chain saw hand.and it is with this that you know i too had to start.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800679944?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800679944?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="750"/></a><iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/w6idPtPAayE?wmode=opaque" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<p>a lot of work went into this and while it isn't screen accurate i love it more then my first born. i started out with a toy chain saw from a Halloween store. i took it apart painted the one yellow body the iconic evil dead red. then i chopped in half the front handle added a working pull cord made from a retractile key chain holder. cut a whole in the back added the painted PVC connector and dowel rod in the center of the whole thing as a hand hold. as well as redirecting the switch for the speaker and rotating chain action. then i bent an aluminum door kick plate for the top plate and screwed it on with some bent aluminum bar for the top handle along with scales made form the same length of cut dowel rod. then i weathered the whole thing with a black was and silver sharpy for scratches before adding some fake blood to the blade itself.</p>
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<p>next up was the shotgun harness made to hold the iconic, 'boom stick'. ash's self tittles double barreled 12 gauge Remington ~smarts top of the line~ you can find my still work in progress bellow along with the shirt already in the stage of being distressed. along with a little bonus</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800683646?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800683646?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="750"/></a> it's a mistake that most people think ash's harness is made out of leather. but by studding the film and and the evil dead 2 action figure closely its clear that really its only the left shoulder harness strap that leather, the one part i have yet to find. the rest is made out of webbing and this green military stuff is the closest I've found. and yes for those of you who spotted it that is pretty much a screen accurate replica of ashes smart name badge form the end of army of darkness i found on etsy. i know I'm mixing movies here but god damn it's my costume so shut up.</p>
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<p>to double down on that since i will be wearing this to work and as cool as the chain saw is it might be a little cumbersome when doing everyday tasks i've decided to also make the prosthetic hand glove from army of darkness as well. while i did find a damn good silicon replica online it was 30 dollars which not to bad, but it was only sold out of china and wouldn't ship to me until November. so i made my own.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800687011?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800687011?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800690624?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800690624?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="750"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800693439?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1800693439?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" class="align-full" width="750"/></a>i made this from a silver glove base, harder then you'd think to find one of those god. Lucky it already had a sort of chain mail pattern on the palm. Important since the movie one was made form the knight gauntlet. then i made the back hand plate from a scrap piece of kick plate left over from the saw. the little raised brass pieces are just cut up wire hangers and the scales for the fingers are made from plastic spoon spray painted silver. the cheapest way in my research to make scale armor. it came out better then i thought it would and not feels really nice to wear.</p>
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<p>well thats all for now I'll keep you guys appraised as i do more.</p>
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<p></p> Tanning animal hidestag:www.wickedzombies.com,2016-06-09:2826695:Topic:5586292016-06-09T13:55:05.490ZJessie W. Garrett IIIhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/JessieWGarrettIII
<h1 class="entry-title">How To Tan A Hide Using Several Methods</h1>
<div class="entry-content"><p><img alt="how to tan a hide using several methods" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6531" height="356" src="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/how-to-tan-a-hide-methods.jpg" width="580"></img> <br></br>I read a post recently by a guy that had finished tanning a deer hide for his daughter. He said it was a fairly long ordeal (and he probably wouldn’t ever do it again), but it turned out beautifully and he had a picture to prove it. The hide looked <span id="more-94"></span>very soft and flexible and hung limp like a blanket over the bed. So thanks to “livbucks” from PA. for…</p>
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<h1 class="entry-title">How To Tan A Hide Using Several Methods</h1>
<div class="entry-content"><p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6531" src="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/how-to-tan-a-hide-methods.jpg" alt="how to tan a hide using several methods" width="580" height="356"/><br/>I read a post recently by a guy that had finished tanning a deer hide for his daughter. He said it was a fairly long ordeal (and he probably wouldn’t ever do it again), but it turned out beautifully and he had a picture to prove it. The hide looked <span id="more-94"></span>very soft and flexible and hung limp like a blanket over the bed. So thanks to “livbucks” from PA. for providing the initial motivation for me to try my hand at tanning a complete hide.</p>
<p><img class="size-full wp-image-184 alignleft" title="how-to-tan-a-hide" src="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/how-to-tan-a-hide.jpg" alt="how to tan a hide example of different animal hides" width="175" height="151"/>I like the idea of DIY or as I would say, DIOY (doing-it-your-own-self) and I also like the idea of not wasting the hide and am glad to see that there are many other people that feel the same way. I am encouraged to see so many people on websites and forums that are keeping old skills like how to tan a hide alive. Chances are, if you are reading this, you are a do-it-yourself person too.</p>
<p>I mostly hunt public land with Over-the-Counter tags. I usually hunt by myself, but sometimes my wife goes with me. We butcher, wrap and freeze the meat and make our own sausage, ground meat and patties for burgers.</p>
<div id="attachment_9987" class="wp-caption alignright"><img class="wp-image-9987 size-full" src="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/deer_skin.jpg" alt="stretched deer skin" width="400" height="463"/><p class="wp-caption-text">Raw mule deer hide from hind quarter.</p>
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<p>I occasionally tan the hides from hind quarters of elk or deer that have been packed out because it’s always good to have deer and elk hair on hand for tying flies, but I plan on making a rug or blanket from a whole deer or elk hide.</p>
<p>If I ever draw a limited entry tag, I also plan on making my own European style mount of the skull and antlers.</p>
<p>Before I tackle a whole skin, I need to acquire a few more tools, but I will update this post when I get started.</p>
<h2>First Experience Tanning Rabbit Hides</h2>
<p>Many years ago while I was still in high school, I was asked by a friend of the family to show him how to dress rabbits. No… Not to put dresses on them like some people do with their small dogs, but to skin, gut and clean them.</p>
<div id="attachment_4825" class="wp-caption alignright"><a href="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/amazon-how-tan-hide" target="_blank"><img class="size-full wp-image-4825" src="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/how-tan-hide-brains-soap-eggs.jpg" alt="how to tan a hide with brains, soap or eggs" width="209" height="346"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text"><a href="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/amazon-how-tan-hide" target="_blank">Deerskins into Buckskins</a> – How to Tan with Brains, Soap or Eggs.</p>
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<p>He had bought a few acres, and though he had a good job in town, was trying to live as self sufficient as possible. He was growing a garden, raising a few cows, goats, free-range chickens and had also started raising rabbits.</p>
<p>Well, you know how it goes… A cow has a calf (one calf), goats usually have two kids, chickens lay 8-12 eggs and you will be lucky to raise 4 or 5 chicks in a season if you don’t keep them penned up, but the rabbits were breeding like rabbits! He already had baby rabbits that were having more baby rabbits and had built more cages, but even the new cages were stacked full of rabbits. Something had to give.</p>
<p>The original purpose for raising the rabbits was for food, but his wife and kids had become attached to the rabbits and hadn’t fully bought-in to the idea of eating what you raise. I don’t think this fellow had actually “harvested” any of his livestock yet. So I was glad to help out and to make a long story short, we “dressed” six rabbits.</p>
<div id="attachment_159" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img class="size-full wp-image-159" title="hybrid-rabbit" src="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/rabbit-hybrid.jpg" alt="hybrid rabbit" width="190" height="154"/><p class="wp-caption-text">This rabbit looks similar to the hybrid skins that were tanned</p>
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<p>His original rabbits, (California giants) were large and white with a soft medium length coat. But about half of the younger rabbits were mostly white, but with an irregular wild-type colored blanket splashed across their backs. My friend said he just assumed the wild native Cottontails were responsible.</p>
<p>How did those sneaky little devils do that through the chicken wire? Not possible, plus domestic rabbits are really from European Hare stock (22 chromosomes) and wild cottontail rabbits have 21 chromosomes, so that was not the answer. He just had white rabbits that still had some genes for wild color type. Still, all the hides were beautiful, especially the wild “cottontail hybrids”.</p>
<p>The purpose of telling this story now, is that once I saw those hides, I couldn’t just throw them away and I had to try to preserve them. At that time (mid 1970s), small game was plentiful where I lived, but big game (white-tailed deer) was not. People used to joke that you could hunt deer an entire lifetime and leave most of a box of shells for your kids. I had skinned many-a-rabbit and squirrel, but had no experience tanning hides and didn’t know anybody that had done it. My Grandfather said he used to know people, they tanned their own hides and even made their own shoes, but they were all “long gone”.</p>
<h2>Foxfire Book 3; Chapter 2 Hide Tanning</h2>
<p>This was obviously many years before Al Gore invented the internet, so back then, the only source of information at that time was our World Book encyclopedia set, the Golden Book Encyclopedia of Natural Science (1962; I still have that set today) and the public library. I had to hustle too, because I didn’t know what to do with the skins, except to stretch and tack them to plywood. My father told me to remove all the excess meat and tissue from the skins and to spread a little pickling salt on them. Luckily, that was enough to hold them until I discovered the Foxfire books at the library the next day.</p>
<p>Foxfire was started as a class project in 1966 as students from northern Georgia interviewed elders and retold their stories about how they lived (self sufficiently) in the Southern Appalachians. They had enough stories to produced a magazine, which later was turned into the book series. There is also a <a title="Foxfire museum and non-profit" href="http://www.foxfire.org/index.html" target="_blank">Foxfire museum and non-profit </a> organization. The name “Foxfire” comes the local name for a bioluminescent (glows in the dark) fungus that grows in the region.</p>
<p>The <a href="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/amazon-foxfire3" target="_blank">Foxfire 3 book</a> was the one I needed to learn how to tan the hides, but the book also covers subjects like animal care, banjos and dulcimers, wild plant foods, churning butter and finding and using ginseng.</p>
<p>The Foxfire 3 book describes several methods for tanning hides, including bark tanning, brain tanning, alum tanning and tanning with lard and flour. Most of the information is for tanning after the hair was removed.</p>
<p>The bark tanning method is a time consuming method that is very similar to method described by the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture Publication below. They did mention how they ringed or cut down trees to get the bark and how they used the bark from different tree species for different colored hides. Chestnut Oak would turn the hides brown and the bark of White Oak would turn hides a yellowish color. Bark could be used either dry or green, but the “tea” or “ooze” made from the bark needs to be the color of dark coffee before using it for tanning hides.</p>
<p>The brain tanning method is similar to other brain tanning methods described. Brains are simply cooked and then rubbed into the hide. Brains were rubbed on the hide either cool or hot, but seems the hot method also helps remove the hair.</p>
<p>The lard and flour method is a method I have not seen described anywhere else before. For tanning a hide with lard, the hide was rubbed with a thick coat of lard and then the lard was coated with flour. The hide was rolled up until “the blood was drawn out”. The hide would be oiled and worked to keep it soft.</p>
<p>None of the methods or equipment are described in great detail, and some of the methods (lard and flour method) were described from memory. There are numerous black and white photos of skins and hides in various stages of skinning and tanning.</p>
<p>The Foxfire 3 book has a short section about tanning hides with the hair on, and that is the section that I followed. The method describes scraping the hides to remove the flesh and fat and then salting the hides (which I did). Then I covered the hides with alum and allowed them to dry. At this point, they should be ready for use.</p>
<p>Another method described using half alum and half soda, but without salting the hide. Another method that would probably be frowned upon today was to use a bar of laundry soap and six ounces of arsenic or lead. This toxic mixture was made into a paste that was then rubbed into the hide.</p>
<p>My hides were preserved well and the fur held tight and remained beautiful for years, but I was disappointed that the hides were very stiff. That seems to be the case for alum tanned hides. I don’t remember much about the softening process (maybe that was the problem – I probably had to return the book before the hide was ready for softening), but the Foxfire 3 book only has a short section on keeping hides pliable. Methods for keeping the hides pliable include using Neat’s-foot oil or beeswax and beef tallow to “work” the hides. Methods or techniques or tools used for working the hides are not described.</p>
<p>I remember that I tried chewing one of the hides for a while. If chewing was really how native American women softened deer hides, I stand in awe of them! Maybe someone told me to chew the hide just to play a joke on a gullible teenager. What I didn’t know at the time, was that hides become soft from working them while still wet, not after they are dry. I basically make raw hide with the hair on. The hides were preserved, but maybe not really tanned.</p>
<h2>Types or Methods of Tanning Hides and Leather at Home</h2>
<ul>
<li><strong>Bark Tanning</strong> – Uses the Tanin or Tannic Acid from bark of oak, hemlock or other trees. This method has also been referred to as vegetable tanning – Tanning with tannic acid from tree bark can take up to 6 months to complete, and will stain the fur of an animal, so I would try this method for tanning leather, but not for preserving a hide. See recipe below – would need at least 100 lbs of bark for a cow hide, So maybe 40 or 50 lbs for a deer hide.</li>
<li><strong>Brain Tanning</strong> – every animal has one (a brain) and it seems that every animal except bison have enough brains to tan their own hide. I am a little concerned about using brains of ungulates as a tanning agent due to the possibility of Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD). CWD is form of spongiform encephalopathy, similar to mad cow disease and several very similar to a very rare prion diseases that effect humans. According to the Center for Disease Control (CDC); “To date, no strong evidence of CWD transmission to humans has been reported.” Well that is good to know, but the CDC advises hunters to have game tested for CWD before consuming it and to take certain precautions in the field while butchering the animal, including; “…wear gloves, bone-out the meat from the animal, and minimize handling of the brain and spinal cord tissues. I am still consider brain tanning, but I don’t think I will be using the brains of a deer or an elk. If not, then I need to find a source for pig brains. When I was young, canned pig brains were always at the grocery store (Armour – same people that make potted meat). I never had them so I don’t know what I missed. I used to wonder who actually bought them. My Grandfather said he used to eat them, but only had them fresh when they killed hogs. I don’t know if they are even available now after all the mad cow disease scare. I will check at some of the Asian food markets. It also seems that most brain tanning instructions also recommend that the hides be smoked as well.</li>
<li><strong>Tanning with Mayonnaise and Raw Eggs</strong> – Since mayo is raw eggs and oil, then the mix is lots of raw eggs and some oil – use the same way as brain tanning – Interesting, never heard of this method before – More research needed.</li>
<li><strong>Tanning with Alcohol & Turpentine</strong> – seems that some people have used this is a 50% alcohol and 50% Turpentine solution – others say they never heard of this and suggested that the leather would likely be very dry when alcohol evaporated. More research is needed here, but I don’t think I want my hides to smell like turpentine.</li>
<li><strong>Salt & Alum Tanning</strong> (ammonium aluminum sulfate or potassium aluminum sulfate)</li>
<li><strong>Chrome Tanning</strong> (Chromium Sulfate) – commercial method – typical hard, shinny texture. Your motorcycle jacket was probably tanned this way – wash water is considered hazardous waste.</li>
<li><strong>Glutaraldehyde Tanning</strong> – an alternative to Chrome Tanning? Related to Formaldehyde. Dow chemical recommends their product Zoldine® be used in conjunction with Chrome Tanning. The Safety sheet states that it is very toxic and extremely harmful to aquatic organisms. Not for me. Probably not for home tanning at all. Sure wouldn’t want my neighbor dumping Chromium or aldehyde compounds on the ground or in the creek anywhere near me.</li>
<li><strong>Lard and Flour Tanning </strong>– method described in Foxfire 3</li>
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<h2>Steps of the Leather and Hide Tanning Process</h2>
<p>Depending upon the source, there are various steps to the Hide Tanning process. I have tried to summarize them here. Also, make sure to read the comments at the end of this post. Much info has been added there.</p>
<p>There seems to be some confusion between sources about what it means to preserve, tan or break hide. Some separate these into different steps, while others don’t include some of the steps or they combine them into a single step.</p>
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<li>Skinning</li>
<li>Fleshing – remove all fat and tissues</li>
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<p>Here is a good detailed exampled of actually fleshing a deer hide.</p>
<p><iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/HDo3Deeo9no?wmode=opaque" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<li>Preserving/Curing – freeze or salt – salt (non-iodized), alum – stop bacterial activity to preserve hides – equal parts salt and hide</li>
<li>Washing/De-greasing – If the hide is very fatty, it might need to be washed</li>
<li>De-hairing – if you want leather – lime – skip this step if you want to tan a hide with fur left on</li>
<li>Thinning (if hide is thick) – Dry Scraping</li>
<li>Tanning – Pickling – Neutralizing – uses an acid solution to prepare the cells of the hide for tanning (Pickle only if hide is not fresh) – test for completion, cut small piece from edge, look to see if color has completely penetrated hide – or put small piece in boiling water, if curls, it is not ready. Must be completely rinsed and neutralized – careful about where you dump waste water. Types of Acid; Battery acid, oxalic acid</li>
<li>Breaking & Oiling</li>
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<p>This is a good look of a nearly finished tanned deer skin (hide-on) and the kid knows his stuff…</p>
<p><iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2BeIO981oAg?wmode=opaque" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<h2>To Salt or Not to Salt Hides to Preserve for Tanning?</h2>
<p>If you are not able to begin the tanning process a soon as the animal is skinned, then the hide must be frozen or salted. If in the field without access to refrigeration, then salt would seem to be the only option. But some sources say to add plenty of salt to cure the hide and set the fur, while others say “Do not Salt!”. One website says not to salt unless you are experienced as salting can ruin a hide. It would help if they would have mentioned how salt could ruin a hide, so we would know what to watch for. Then there is the choice of dry salting or wet salting. Dry salted hides look like they could be stacked in the corner for some time, while wet salted hides must be stored in a sealed plastic container. Dry salted hides seem to be harder to rehydrate and tan when you resume the process.</p>
<p>The fur can start falling out (slipping) fairly quickly in warm weather due to bacterial growth, so what to do? I plan on salting the hide as soon as possible, but more research is needed on salting hides to learn what some of the pitfalls might be. But if you do salt a hide, do not use iodized salt and do not use rock salt because size of crystals is too large and too many impurities. Use a fine grained salt like pickling salt. The hide needs to be completely covered with salt and a good guide to the amount of salt needed is to use about the same amount of salt as the animal hide weighs.</p>
<h2>Hide Tanning Books to Consider</h2>
<p>I think I have just about exhausted the credible online resources on tanning hides. There are lots of You-tube videos, and some have some good info, but most seem to be for leather and not for hides with the fur left on. I need a little more in-depth information to decide on the type of tanning I will attempt. I also feel like I need a little more step by step guidance, especially on the subjects like hide thinning and breaking. I ordered some books on how to tan a hide and will be using them to help decide which tanning process I want to use and what tools I need to obtain. The best one so far has been <a title="how to tan a hide with brains, soap or eggs" href="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/amazon-how-tan-hide" target="_blank">Deerskins into Buckskins</a>.</p>
<div id="attachment_4825" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/amazon-how-tan-hide" target="_blank"><img class="size-full wp-image-4825" src="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/how-tan-hide-brains-soap-eggs.jpg" alt="how to tan a hide with brains, soap or eggs" width="209" height="346"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text"><a href="http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/amazon-how-tan-hide" target="_blank">Deerskins into Buckskins</a> – How to Tan with Brains, Soap or Eggs.</p>
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<blockquote><p>“Lot of good detail and step by step directions. Also good history and easy to follow. I have already used it to buckskin and it works well. Thanks and can’t wait to do another one by a slightly different method.” -Gerald</p>
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<h2>Tanning Hides and Leather with Bark (Tannin/Tannic Acid)</h2>
<p>I found an old U.S. Dept. of Agriculture (1884) publication <a href="http://digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc1786/m1/1/" target="_blank">Home Tanning of Leather and Small Fur Skins</a> and have summarized the basic steps for tanning a cow hide with tannic acid from bark:</p>
<div style="margin-left: 2em"><ol>
<li>Make bark liquor – 30-40 lbs of finely ground (particles no larger than corn kernel) oak or hemlock bark</li>
<li>Boil 20 gallons of pure water (rain water is best)</li>
<li>mix in barrel (do not use iron container) and let stand for 15-20 days, stir occasionally</li>
<li>when ready to use, strain off the bark by pouring through a sack</li>
<li>Add 2 quarts vinegar</li>
<li>hang sides (of cow hide) from sticks in the bark, the less folds the better, move around often to insure even coloring</li>
<li>As soon as sides are soaking in the bark liquor mixture, make another batch of liquor mixture</li>
<li>After 10-15 days, remove about 5 gallons of mixture from the barrel with the hides, and replace it with fresh bark mixture from second batch, and add 2 quarts of vinegar.</li>
<li>After 5 more days remove another 5 gallons of mixture and replace with 5 gallons of the fresh mixture (no more vinegar needed)</li>
<li>Repeat twice more every 5 days – check hide by cutting a sliver from an end piece to see how much the hide has been penetrated.</li>
<li>Then take another 40 lbs of bark and moisten with water, add bark directly to the sides and bury them in the bark for 6 weeks.</li>
<li>After 6 weeks, check of hide should show tanning spread nearly to the center – pour out half of the old bark liquor water and fill the barrel with fresh bark – shake the barrel from time to time, add bark and water as needed to keep hides covered – checking hide should reveal all tanned, no white or raw streak – if not complete, leave in the mixture and add more bark and water to keep covered. At this point leather to be used for harness or belt leather should be done, but leave for 2 months longer if leather is to be used for shoe soles.</li>
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<p><strong>Wow! A minimum of 100 lbs of oak bark and at least 77 -87 days of preparing or soaking the hide.</strong></p>
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<p>The U.S.D.A. publication warns the reader that “The inexperienced cannot hope to make leather equal in appearance, or possibly in quality, to that obtainable on the market”… and “It is never advisable for an inexperienced person to try to tan valuable fur skins or large hides to be made into coats, robes or rugs. The results would be disappointing, both in appearance and in quality”. Doesn’t sound like govt. has changed much.</p>
<p>Sound like they didn’t really want to make the publication, but since the people demanded it, they did. But they didn’t want to be blamed if the hides did not turn out right. Well that’s all I need to hear, for someone to tell me I can’t do it. Now I might not try tanning a hide with 100 lbs of oak bark, but back when the bulletin was published, it was probably fairly simple to go cut down an oak tree or two and get that much bark. Grinding it up into small pieces might not be so simple.</p>
<p>I have been trying to visualize how much in volume 100 lbs of bark takes up. I have bought landscaping bark in bags and spread it around the shrubs as mulch. I am thinking that 100 lbs of bark would be about 5 wheel-barrows full or about 30 cubic feet. I’ll bet if you lived anywhere in the eastern or southern U.S., you could easily find oak bark at a small timber operation.</p>
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<p> And you can find books on Amazon.com for helping with your tanning....</p>
</div> How to make Penicillin, very useful to know.tag:www.wickedzombies.com,2016-02-27:2826695:Topic:5554492016-02-27T00:48:35.763ZHoodyzhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/Wayne393
Stumbled across this article, this is very easy and very useful. Find some moldy bread or orange peel and boom you have penicillin. Keep this info in mind everyone, I know I will!<br />
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<a href="http://anonhq.com/how-to-create-homemade-penicillin-seriously/">http://anonhq.com/how-to-create-homemade-penicillin-seriously/</a>
Stumbled across this article, this is very easy and very useful. Find some moldy bread or orange peel and boom you have penicillin. Keep this info in mind everyone, I know I will!<br />
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<a href="http://anonhq.com/how-to-create-homemade-penicillin-seriously/">http://anonhq.com/how-to-create-homemade-penicillin-seriously/</a> Forged by Firetag:www.wickedzombies.com,2016-02-05:2826695:Topic:5548632016-02-05T06:36:33.475ZJessie W. Garrett IIIhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/JessieWGarrettIII
<p> Went and got laundry done. While there I looked at the TV they had and it was locked on the History channel. Well I think I might have found another show for the do it yourself weapons maker...</p>
<p> It's not a bad show...I actually like it....</p>
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<p>Check it out...</p>
<p> Went and got laundry done. While there I looked at the TV they had and it was locked on the History channel. Well I think I might have found another show for the do it yourself weapons maker...</p>
<p> It's not a bad show...I actually like it....</p>
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<p>Check it out...</p> Tiny Wood Stove Made From A Propane Tanktag:www.wickedzombies.com,2016-02-03:2826695:Topic:5548552016-02-03T05:30:11.235ZJessie W. Garrett IIIhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/JessieWGarrettIII
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</p> DIY Tire Rim Grill (No Welding)tag:www.wickedzombies.com,2015-12-22:2826695:Topic:5534532015-12-22T20:30:59.727ZJessie W. Garrett IIIhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/JessieWGarrettIII
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<p><span>Having an innovative approach to doing things may save you some money. Take this next DIY project for example. Making your own charcoal grill will definitely cut down on the cost of buying a new one. Especially if you choose the version suggested here. The tire rim grill will not only prove efficient but also will look good. The design of the rim itself makes it perfect for grilling and impress when people come in your yard. There is no…</span></p>
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<p><span>Having an innovative approach to doing things may save you some money. Take this next DIY project for example. Making your own charcoal grill will definitely cut down on the cost of buying a new one. Especially if you choose the version suggested here. The tire rim grill will not only prove efficient but also will look good. The design of the rim itself makes it perfect for grilling and impress when people come in your yard. There is no welding required and a new paint coat on the cleaned rim will get you far into the process. A couple of days in the weekend will be all the time needed to turn an unused tire rim into the perfect simple grill you see in the pictures. Further details and instructions on the DIY job at hand will be available at the end..</span><br/> <br/> <span><span>Step 1: Removing the rim from the rubber</span></span></p>
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<p><span><span>Step 2: Parts and Painting</span></span></p>
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<p><span>Step 3: Base Tools: Grinder M</span></p>
<p><span>iter Saw Power Drill Planer (Optional) Parts: Tire Rim High Heat Paint – 2 Cans 4’x4:x96″ – 1 5/8″ Bolts/Hardware – 4 Wheels – 4 1/2″ Lag Bolts – 4 1 1/2″ Steel Black Pipe – 18 inches 1/2″ Threaded Rods/Hardware – 2 Grill Grate – Various Sizes, 1 or 2 Wheels – 4 Step 4: Rim to Pipe to Base Step 5: Finishing Touches My Picks Rust-Oleum 7778830 High Heat Enamel Sp… $3.95 Reliable Hardware Company RH-9005-SE… $12.00 PlumBest 300B1518R Iron Nipple, Black, 1… $21.77 Weber 7441 Replacement Charc… $10.99 All Powered by more details here…</span><br/> <br/> <span>See more at: <a href="http://www.goodshomedesign.com/diy-tire-rim-grill-no-welding/2/">http://www.goodshomedesign.com/diy-tire-rim-grill-no-welding/2/</a></span></p>
<p><span><span> </span></span></p> How to Make: Berserker Raider Helmet (Fallout 4 Inspired)tag:www.wickedzombies.com,2015-12-13:2826695:Topic:5528652015-12-13T21:33:24.648Zsaint.357http://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/saint357
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<p>So i found this video from one of my favorite gadget and weapon makers on YouTube. it is an awesome fall out inspired helmet/mask. I hate to admit that kid much younger then me is actually a better creator then i am but its true. i get very inspired by see his builds. and unlike a lot of people he doesn't just give you plans to copy him he actual try to motivate you…</p>
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<p>So i found this video from one of my favorite gadget and weapon makers on YouTube. it is an awesome fall out inspired helmet/mask. I hate to admit that kid much younger then me is actually a better creator then i am but its true. i get very inspired by see his builds. and unlike a lot of people he doesn't just give you plans to copy him he actual try to motivate you to make your own designs. he give you a base over view and walks you through how you could make a custom one yourself. i would really love to make one of these but lack several tools to do so like I'm sure a lot of people who see this do. so i thought i would share my idea on modifying this for tool lacking individual.</p>
<p>Now the main tool i lack is of course the welder. as much a i would love to learn welding i lack both the funds to purchase one and a teacher to learn from. To combat this the welds can be simulated by use mending plates and rivets or bolts to secure sections of the mask together. it will be bigger bulkier and less sturdy but will do for those of us with out a couple hundred to a thousand to drop on a mig welder. </p>
<p>the good things about the apocalyptic genera is the more shit and cobbled together is appears the better, you can fuck up and keep on going it doesn't mater. which is personally why i love the medium so much. </p>
<p>while i have an angel grinder like he does, which depending on where you go will run you 20 to 30 dollars, the cuts in it can be done with out one. by hand with a good hacksaw. it will be long hard work and you'll probably go through a few blades before your doesn't but it can be done. I've done it my self cutting through tempered and hardened steel knife blades. with enough determination you can do anything.</p>
<p>so if you were gonna make a mask like this where would you start, what would use, and what kind of protection slash decorating would you but on it? as for me i probably would have gone with two different metals for the side a liter and a darker one, probably with the pattern and without. i would have added a lot of little plates ans stuff to not only cover up the actual ones used to hold the whole thing together but to also give it a bit more of a Frankenstein feeling. i would of added some teeth made out of metal of bone would be great animal teeth even more so to give it a bit of immortal Joe feel from mad max.</p> Barrel Stovetag:www.wickedzombies.com,2015-12-02:2826695:Topic:5516362015-12-02T03:47:58.987ZJessie W. Garrett IIIhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/JessieWGarrettIII
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<h4 class="abyline" style="text-align: center;">By Nick Weston </h4>
<h4 class="abyline" style="text-align: center;">January/February,…</h4>
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<h4 class="abyline" style="text-align: center;">By Nick Weston </h4>
<h4 class="abyline" style="text-align: center;">January/February, 2012</h4>
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<p style="text-align: center;">Build your own barrel stove for dollars and keep your house warm and food cooked for hardly cost! Obviously this would be great to build for an emergency and keep stored away until you need it.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">I am all for DIY projects that will save you a lot of money and keep you on your target to get off the grid. This is no exception, this DIY barrel stove idea is an awesome way to keep you warm and to cook your food on and even boil your water all day long!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>In a quick run down, all you need is:</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">1 55-gallon steel drum<br/>8 L-brackets (3×3-inch)<br/>1 hinge (3-inch)<br/>22 Phillips head bolts (M5x20) with square nuts and washers<br/>10 self-tapping screws (to fit stove pipe onto stove)<br/>6 coach/carriage bolts (for fitting the draft) with nuts and washers (M5x20)<br/>Black wood stove spray paint</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Get the full tutorial and pictures to complete this project. If you actually make one please send us some photos of it in action. I will gladly share them with the Facebook page!</p>
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<tbody><tr><td class="text2ic"><img src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/images/weston133-1.jpg" width="460" height="307" hspace="0" vspace="0" border="0"/><br/> This stove kept me warm and provided an excellent cooking surface for more than six months while I lived in my treehouse.</td>
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<p>With a bit of nip and tuck using a few basic tools, an old oil drum can be transformed into a fantastic woodburning stove. Although the thin sheet metal used to make oil drums may not hold the heat as well as a stove built from an old gas canister, it does have a couple of positives: it is incredibly light and transportable and no specialized tools are required for construction. Its light weight makes it an ideal stove for temporary situations, such as a winter hunting camp. Because the firebox is elevated off the ground, it would also work in an ice fishing hut.</p>
<p>For more than six months, this very stove kept me nice and warm while I was living in my tree house. It also provided an excellent surface for cooking on at an ideal height and kept the kettle singing all day long!</p>
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<tbody><tr><td class="text2ic"><img src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/images/weston133-2.jpg" width="250" height="167" hspace="0" vspace="0" border="0"/><br/> Attach the stovepipe to the turned-up tabs on the barrel.</td>
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<tbody><tr><td class="text2ic"><img src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/images/weston133-3.jpg" width="250" height="293" hspace="0" vspace="0" border="0"/><br/> One benefit of this stove is that it is lightweight and easy to transport to unusual places, such as my treehouse.</td>
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<tbody><tr><td class="text2ic"><img src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/images/weston133-4.jpg" width="250" height="207" hspace="0" vspace="0" border="0"/><br/> Cracks around the firebox floor can be filled with exhaust pipe filler.</td>
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<tbody><tr><td class="text2ic"><img src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/images/weston133-5.jpg" width="250" height="297" hspace="0" vspace="0" border="0"/><br/> The stove, mid-construction</td>
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<tbody><tr><td class="text2ic"><img src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/images/weston133-6.jpg" width="250" height="213" hspace="0" vspace="0" border="0"/><br/> The square near the head of the carriage bolt leaves a gap between the head of the bolt and the stove door that is just the right size for the draft plate to slide in.</td>
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<tbody><tr><td class="text2ic"><img src="http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/images/weston133-7.jpg" width="250" height="158" hspace="0" vspace="0" border="0"/><br/> Six carriage bolts hold the draft plate in place and allow it to slide back and forth. When the draft is against the bolt at the left, it is open; when it is against the bolt at the right, it is closed. The knob to adjust it is attached at center.</td>
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<p>There are many places to get your hands on an old oil drum: a visit to the local garage or mechanic is the best place to start (they will probably give it to you free), and demolition yards are also quite productive. The stove itself will cost less than $25 to build, but you will have to spend a bit of money on the stovepipe, flash plate, and rain hat.</p>
<p>Tools you will need: jigsaw and two metal cutting blades (in case one breaks), power drill with drill bits (all purpose bits or those suitable for metal), flat head screw driver, pliers, metal file (for getting rid of any sharp edges), and thick black marker pen.</p>
<h3>Materials:</h3>
<p>1 55-gallon steel drum<br/> 8 L-brackets (3x3-inch)<br/> 1 hinge (3-inch)<br/> 22 Phillips head bolts (M5x20) with square nuts and washers<br/> 10 self-tapping screws (to fit stove pipe onto stove)<br/> 6 coach/carriage bolts (for fitting the draft) with nuts and washers (M5x20)<br/> Black wood stove spray paint</p>
<h3>Directions</h3>
<p>Drill a hole at the edge of the top of the drum (the end with the screw-on caps). Using a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, cut around the edge of the drum and remove the "lid." (This will eventually be bolted on the inside as the firebox floor; the open end of the barrel will be the bottom of the stove.) Remember, before making any cuts with the jigsaw, you will have to drill a hole to insert the jigsaw blade. Mark out any openings you will need to cut out using a thick black marker pen.</p>
<p>Move the barrel to an open area and make a small fire in the bottom to burn off any excess oil or residue still clinging to the insides (remember to stand well back). Once cooled, you can begin work.</p>
<p>To make the stove door, cut two rectangular openings in the front of the barrel on the side opposite the seam. There should be two raised rings running around the barrel, dividing it into three sections. The smaller rectangle (12x8 inches) should be cut in the top section (closest to the closed end of the barrel) and will be the opening of the firebox. Keep the smaller cutout to use for the draft plate. The larger rectangle (14x10 inches) should be cut out of the bottom section (near the open end of the barrel); this larger rectangle will be used for the firebox door.</p>
<p>The hole for the stovepipe should be positioned on the top surface near the back edge. You will need a stovepipe with a diameter of 5 inches, although the smaller the better. Position the edge of the stovepipe about 1 inch from the back of the stove top and draw around it with a felt-tip pen. Next, draw a 4-inch circle inside the 5-inch circle. By cutting out the smaller circle, the remaining ½-inch border can be cut into tabs that can be bent up when fitting the stovepipe. You can then fit the stovepipe with L-brackets or self-tapping screws.</p>
<p>The firebox floor is made from the round disc that was cut out of the top of the barrel. This will be supported by L-brackets. Six brackets spaced evenly, with an extra one at the door, work well, but it doesn't hurt to use more if you wish. Drill holes in the barrel about one inch below the upper ring. Make sure they are all the same distance from the top, about two inches below the door opening. Bolt the brackets to the disc first, then lower the floor into the barrel and bolt it into place. This is a lot harder than it sounds, and is easier with two people. There will be a crack around the edge on the inside that can be sealed with exhaust pipe filler from underneath.</p>
<p>The air draft at the bottom of the door is quite tricky to make. Cut a 2½x9-inch piece from the smaller leftover rectangle. Make vertical markings every ½-inch from end to end. This draft slide is held in place by six carriage bolts. These have a round shaft with threads, topped by a square, which is then topped by a rounded head. If in doubt, your DIY shop can help you locate them.</p>
<p>Drill five holes (two at the top, two at the bottom, and one on the left end — see photos below for placement) big enough for the shaft of the bolt to pass through, but not big enough for the square to pass through. The slide will move back and forth in the space between the stove door and the round head of the carriage bolts. Install the five bolts and move the slide to the left as far as possible. Then drill a hole in the center through the slide and the door. The size of the hole will be dictated by the knob you use. Through this hole bolt the slide to the door. This will hold everything in place while you drill the air holes. Next, drill three rows of 3/8-inch air holes on each side of the slide, ½-inch apart. Be sure to drill through both the slide and the door at the same time so the holes will all line up when the draft is open. The plain ½-inch spaces will cover the holes in the door when the draft is closed. Remove the slide and drill or cut an opening in the door to allow for the movement of the knob screw. Replace the slide and install the sixth carriage bolt on the right end. Allow space so that the slide covers all the holes in the door when the draft is closed. Finally, attach the knob. This involves a lot of drilling, but it makes a great air draft.</p>
<p>Attach the door with a 3-inch hinge on the left hand side.</p>
<p>The door latch is made using two 3x3-inch L-brackets. Cut one L-bracket down to 3x1-inch and carve a ¼-inch notch into it that will accept the other "latch" L-bracket. It's a bit fiddly to get a snug fit, but make adjustments until the door stays tightly shut.</p>
<p>Be sure to test the stove outside a few times to ensure there are no weak points or cracks. Do ensure the draft works and draws the smoke out of the stovepipe without any escaping; remember the stove will be used indoors! The stove does give out a fair bit of heat, so make sure the floor and walls around it are fireproofed or are at least a good 12 inches away. To make the stove look presentable, you can give it a good scrub down with a wire brush and then spray it with black wood stove spray paint — about three cans should cover it.</p> 7 Creative Ways to Use Food Storage Beans – Even When You Hate Themtag:www.wickedzombies.com,2015-11-15:2826695:Topic:5514822015-11-15T04:59:42.286ZJessie W. Garrett IIIhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/JessieWGarrettIII
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<p>NOVEMBER 9, 2015<span> BY </span><span class="entry-author"><a class="entry-author-link" href="http://momwithaprep.com/author/momwithaprep/" rel="author"><span class="entry-author-name">JANE</span></a></span><span> …</span></p>
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<p>NOVEMBER 9, 2015<span> BY </span><span class="entry-author"><a href="http://momwithaprep.com/author/momwithaprep/" class="entry-author-link" rel="author"><span class="entry-author-name">JANE</span></a></span><span> </span></p>
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<tbody><tr><td valign="top"><h2>Hate beans?! Me, too! </h2>
<br/><font face="georgia, times new roman, bitstream charter, times, serif"><span>I am a self-confessed hater of beans. I LOVE hummus, put up with bean dip and will tolerate a small portion of beans in a meal, but bean soups, rice and beans and all other staples of a typical food storage plan would just be wasted on my family and I because we all hate them. <br/><br/>But I have begun to develop a way to bring beans into our food storage, learning to love using them in alternative ways to broaden our food supply, eat a little healthier, and feel a better sense of security of what our stores look like.<br/><br/></span></font></td>
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<p>I am no fan of beans. I dislike the texture tremendously, I don’t like the taste of most of them, and I’ve never been able to convince myself that they’re good enough to just get over and eat.</p>
<p>I can handle a few in some dishes, but I will tell you a secret. I’m like a two year old who hides them in the side of her mouth and just swallows them without chewing. I mean…I really don’t like beans. I don’t hate all beans. But lima beans, pinto beans and those big white beans – HATE THEM ALL!</p>
<p>However, even I know that <a href="http://beaninstitute.com/health-benefits/nutritional-value-of-dry-beans/" target="_blank">beans are really good for you</a>. They provide complex carbohydrates, are nutritionally dense, provide a great source of dietary fiber, and contain a great source of protein, but I also know there’s no point in putting anything into your food storage that you and your family won’t eat.</p>
<p>So how do you incorporate beans into your food storage, yet make them useful for something other than weighing down pie crusts and using for kids art projects or science lessons? </p>
<p><span><em>The secret is learning how to incorporate beans into your diet in alternative ways!</em></span></p>
<p><br/><br/><ins class="adsbygoogle"><ins id="aswift_0_expand"><ins id="aswift_0_anchor"></ins></ins></ins></p>
<h2>Creative Ways to Use Food Storage Beans</h2>
<h3>Bean flours in baking</h3>
<p><a href="http://amzn.to/1HCBsRp" target="_blank">Bean flours</a> are used in baking and cooking all over the world. Different beans produce different color flours and consistencies and are readily available at <a href="http://amzn.to/1HCBsRp" target="_blank">Amazon</a>, Azure Standard and even your local grocery store now! Bean flours are used by those trying to stay away from gluten for dietary reasons. <a href="http://blog.bobsredmill.com/gluten-free/national-flour-month-bean-flour-primer/" target="_blank">Here is a great run-down of the different bean flours and how they can be used.</a> I’ve stuck primarily to garbanzo/chickpea flour because it’s the one bean I stock in my pantry consistently and am familiar with using. I substitute approximately 25% off my all purpose flour with <a href="http://amzn.to/1SccFcq" target="_blank">chickpea flour</a> when doing baked breads to add a bit more protein. </p>
<h3>Bean flours in cooking</h3>
<p>Bean flours can be a great way to replace the ‘cream’ in a cream of something soup. It is a great way to replace many ‘creamer’ ingredients in popular <a href="http://momwithaprep.com/101-meals-in-a-jar-recipes/" target="_blank">Meal in a Jar recipes</a> that can extend your food storage with ready-made meals to keep or give as gifts.</p>
<p>Here is the recipe:</p>
<ul>
<li>2 cups stock (this can be chicken, vegetable, or beef stock)</li>
<li>1/3 cup white bean flour (you can use<a href="http://amzn.to/1SccFcq" target="_blank"> chickpea flour</a> or <a href="http://amzn.to/1ScdXEc" target="_blank">white bean flour</a>)</li>
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<p>To make cream of mushroom, choose the beef stock and put in bits of <a href="http://momwithaprep.com/how-to-dehydrate-mushrooms/" target="_blank">dehydrated mushroom</a>. Alternatively, use vegetable stock with added celery slices for cream of celery soup. <a href="http://www.littlehouseliving.com/making-and-using-bean-flour.html" target="_blank">Source: Little House Living</a></p>
<p>And what makes this a great money saving alternative is that you can grind beans to make your own bean flour!</p>
<h3>Bean dips</h3>
<p><a href="http://momwithaprep.com/food-storage-recipe-hummus/" target="_blank"><span>Hummus</span></a> – a full flavored hummus plus crackers, pita bread, crips vegetable chips or even my spoon is one of my favorite snacks. I love roasted garlic hummus and my youngest one loves lemon hummus (huh?! yeah, that’s what I thought, but the boy who eats so little loves the stuff so I buy it for him as I haven’t found a good recipe to replace his favorite). It is a middle eastern food staple that sits in my fridge ready-made all the time. I stock up if our grocery store has a big sale and I always have cans of chickpeas and bags of chickpeas in the pantry to make it myself. It is really easy and there are a lot of varieties out there! Here’s a <a href="http://www.chowhound.com/recipes/red-lentil-hummus-14110" target="_blank">red lentil hummus</a>that would make a great sandwich spread, too! And I’m dying to try this <a href="http://www.thenourishinggourmet.com/2012/09/3-simple-hummus-recipes-savory-and-sweet.html" target="_blank">Peanut Butter Cookie Dough Hummus</a> with apples!</p>
<p><span>Bean Dip</span> – a favorite story from my youth is a friend’s brother who loved bean dip as a child until he found out it was actually made out of beans. Then he refused to eat it ever again. But<a href="http://www.thekitchenpaper.com/spicy-bean-dip/" target="_blank">spicy bean dips</a> can be a great accompianment to adding flavor to a meal that might otherwise be blah. And while maybe not something you can count on to take advantage of food storage during lean times, <a href="http://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/championship-bean-dip" target="_blank">this bean dip</a> is awesome and versatile to use the leftovers for more!</p>
<p><span>Lentil and White Bean Dips</span> – these bean dips can be milder in flavor and still work well as a side dip or as a sandwich spread. White beans give a really creamy texture and have a less distinct flavor profile, so may be a good choice as a way to begin integrating it into your diet. Try this <a href="http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/giada-de-laurentiis/white-bean-dip-with-pita-chips-recipe.html" target="_blank">White Bean Dip</a> and <a href="http://www.yummly.com/recipes/vegetarian-lentil-dip" target="_blank">this collection of lentil dips</a>. </p>
<h3>Replace Butter and Oil in baking</h3>
<p>I know, right?! Who knew?! But it’s true. </p>
<p><span>To replace oil</span>: Use a 1:1 ratio with bean puree. A bean puree is beans with some water enough to make them like applesauce or hummus. You could just dump a can of beans, liquid and all, and blend, but that would be pretty sodium filled. If you use canned, just dump the liquid, rinse and then replace the liquid with water and go.</p>
<p><span>To replace butter:</span> Mash the beans instead of pureeing them. You need a little more consistency.</p>
<p>To see more tips on using beans to replace oils and butter in cooking, <span><a href="http://everydayfoodstorage.net/2012/02/07/how-to-use-food-storage-beans-for-butter-andor-oil/food-storage-recipes" target="_blank">check out Everyday Food Storage.net’s ideas here.</a></span></p>
<h3>Thicken Soups</h3>
<p>You can use a bean puree (beans with added water blended) to thicken a soup to make it less watery plus add loads of protein without a ton of added calories. Be careful about the bean you choose overwhelming the flavor of the particular soup you have (you might not want to use pinto beans to flavor a chicken soup). You can also use pre-ground bean flour to accomplish this task.</p>
<h3>Bean Sprouts</h3>
<p>Now, for those of you who REALLY hate beans, just seeing a bean sprouted may make you turn away because of the fear factor. But don’t. Don’t think of the typical fat legume as being your only source of beans. There are a huge variety and most can be used to sprout and eat on salads or used within recipes. In some cases, <a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/2011/04/how-to-grow-bean-sprouts-in-a-jar.html" target="_blank">sprouting actually makes the bean more digestible</a>and allows some enzymes to be more readily available for your body. And what makes it wonderful is that they’re one of the best foods for you. My sprouting adventures are very limited to just a dish or two, but here is a<a href="https://sproutpeople.org/sprout-recipes/" target="_blank"> great resource of sprouting ideas and recipes</a> for you to try. As a side note, please follow sprouting directions to mak this a safe way to use beans. Some beans don’t work well and you may introduce contamination if not fully cooked.</p>
<h3>Smoothies</h3>
<p>Stop. I see you going to click the x to leave this page. But hear me out. Really, you can be adventurous and look to using beans in smoothies to add a big punch of protein without the expensive protein powders (though I have to say – <a href="http://amzn.to/1Sc3BnU" target="_blank">hemp powder</a> is a staple in our house!) Mixing black beans into a chocolate based smoothie or cannellini beans into a vanilla based smoothie will lend a ton of protein without the weird bean taste and make for a healtheir smoothie. What about this <a href="http://themuffinmyth.com/2014/07/27/chocolate-black-bean-brownie-smoothie/" target="_blank">black bean brownie smoothie</a> or this <a href="http://shopcookmake.blogspot.com/2011/10/pumpkin-and-white-bean-smoothie.html" target="_blank">Pumpkin & White Bean Smoothie</a>? And don’t forget the Asian flair in smoothies with this <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCThXZiw2VI" target="_blank">Green Tea Smoothie</a>.</p>
<p><em>A tip: You can broaden what is a standard American list of beans with mung beans, adzuki beans, garbanzo beans/chickpeas, lentils, soybeans, chinese long beans and more! Be adventurous!</em></p>
<p></p> How to Make a Saline Solutiontag:www.wickedzombies.com,2015-11-09:2826695:Topic:5512172015-11-09T04:53:18.377ZJessie W. Garrett IIIhttp://www.wickedzombies.com/profile/JessieWGarrettIII
<div class="section sticky" id="intro"><h1 class="firstHeading"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution">How to Make a Saline Solution</a></h1>
<p class="sp_method_toc" id="method_toc"><span>Two Methods:</span><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#In_the_Microwave_sub">In the Microwave</a><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#On_the_Stove_sub">On the Stove</a></p>
<p>A saline solution can work wonders for a number of conditions, like sore…</p>
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<div id="intro" class="section sticky"><h1 class="firstHeading"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution">How to Make a Saline Solution</a></h1>
<p id="method_toc" class="sp_method_toc"><span>Two Methods:</span><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#In_the_Microwave_sub">In the Microwave</a><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#On_the_Stove_sub">On the Stove</a></p>
<p>A saline solution can work wonders for a number of conditions, like sore throats, piercings, or skin infections. And the best part is it can be done in minutes with a quick raid of two ingredients from your kitchen. Keep reading to learn how to get your proportions right to create a solution that is natural and effective.</p>
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<h3><span class="mw-headline" id="In_the_Microwave">Method 1 of 2: In the Microwave</span></h3>
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<li class="stepedit"><div class="mwimg largeimage floatcenter"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#/Image:Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-1.jpg" class="image lightbox"><img alt="Make a Saline Solution Step 1" src="http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/e/e0/Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-1.jpg/670px-Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-1.jpg" width="670" height="473" class="whcdn" id="563f75a863b2a" name="563f75a863b2a"/></a></div>
<div class="step_num">1</div>
<div class="step"><b class="whb">Purchase either regular table salt or sea salt.</b> Do not buy fancy, scented, coloured or flavoured salts; the salt needs to be as pure as possible. Make sure it's iodine-free and lacks preservatives -- if it's anything but salt it could irritate your skin/nasal lining / whatever you're using it for.</div>
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<li><div class="mwimg largeimage floatcenter"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#/Image:Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-2.jpg" class="image lightbox"><img alt="Make a Saline Solution Step 2" src="http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/d/d2/Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-2.jpg/670px-Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-2.jpg" width="670" height="473" class="whcdn" id="563f75a863d2a" name="563f75a863d2a"/></a></div>
<div class="step_num">2</div>
<div class="step"><b class="whb">Put a 1/2 teaspoon (2.</b><b>5g) of salt into a cup.</b> You want to mimic the concentration of salt or tears by creating a normal (the actual term) solution that's 0.9% saline. 1/2 tsp is about right for fine table salt, but not for coarse sea salt, where the volume needed to obtain 2.5 g can be up to twice that of fine salt.<sup id="_ref-1" class="reference"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#_note-1">[1]</a></sup> For kids, stay on the less-salty side; for adults, a bit saltier is okay. But just a bit!<ul>
<li>If you like, some recipes say to add 1/2 a teaspoon or so of baking soda.<sup id="_ref-2" class="reference"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#_note-2">[2]</a></sup>However, a normal solution doesn't need it.</li>
<li>This is for 8 ounces of water. If you're using more water, use more salt.</li>
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<li><div class="mwimg largeimage floatcenter"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#/Image:Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-3.jpg" class="image lightbox"><img alt="Make a Saline Solution Step 3" src="http://pad3.whstatic.com/images/thumb/b/b4/Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-3.jpg/670px-Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-3.jpg" width="670" height="473" class="whcdn" id="563f75a863efc" name="563f75a863efc"/></a></div>
<div class="step_num">3</div>
<div class="step"><b class="whb">Add 8 ounces (1 cup) of hot water and stir well.</b> Zap it in the microwave for a minute or so, set it in your kettle, or otherwise somehow get it to a point where it's hot but not boiling. You will need to run the microwave significantly longer than 1 minute to ensure sterility. Using a covered pyrex bowl works more quickly, but the top may become displaced by buildup of steam if heating is prolonged. Grab a spoon and help it dissolve.<ul>
<li>Make sure it's stirred well! If it's cloudy or dirty, throw it out.<sup id="_ref-ca_3-0" class="reference"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#_note-ca-3">[3]</a></sup></li>
<li>If you want to be extra careful, use distilled water (or water that has actually reached a boil). This makes sure everything is sterile and hygienic.<sup id="_ref-4" class="reference"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#_note-4">[4]</a></sup></li>
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<div class="step_num">4</div>
<div class="step"><b class="whb">Depending on your situation either cleanse, submerge or gargle the saline solution.</b> But make sure not to swallow it! For the record, it's not intended for open wounds, either.<ul>
<li>For piercings, do not submerge in water. Cleanse the area only, as the saline solution can leave the surrounding areas quite dry. Speak to a licensed professional for the best way to care for your new piercing.</li>
<li>For nail infections or other skin related infections (not open wounds) submerge the appendage in the saline 4 times a day. This method can take days to weeks to work, see a medical professional before it spreads, and if you see a red line traveling up your appendage go to the ER.</li>
<li>For a sore throat gargle morning and night, do not ingest the solution, though doing so by mistake will not harm you. If the sore throat persists after 2 days see a doctor.</li>
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<li><div class="mwimg largeimage floatcenter"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#/Image:Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-5.jpg" class="image lightbox"><img alt="Make a Saline Solution Step 5" src="http://pad2.whstatic.com/images/thumb/8/84/Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-5.jpg/670px-Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-5.jpg" width="670" height="473" class="whcdn" id="563f75a86428c" name="563f75a86428c"/></a><div id="netseer_image_banner_0" class="netseer_image_banner"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#/Image:Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-5.jpg" class="image lightbox"></a><div class="netseer_banner_container"><br/><div id="ad0.3797708572819829" class="netseer_banner_body"></div>
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<div class="step_num">1</div>
<div class="step"><b class="whb">Place 1 cup of water and 1/2 teaspoon of salt into a pan.</b> That's 8 ounces of water and about 2.5 grams of salt. Make sure the salt is iodide-free and lacks preservatives, coloring, scent, or any other fancy stuff that's unnecessary.<ul>
<li>1/2 a teaspoon doesn't seem like much, does it? For adults, it's safe to add a bit more, but just a bit. You want to have a solution that's similar to your own tears -- that's 0.9% saline.<sup id="_ref-ca_3-1" class="reference"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#_note-ca-3">[3]</a></sup></li>
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<div class="step"><b class="whb">Bring to a boil for 15 minutes.</b> Place the lid on from the start. If you do not use a lid, too much of the water will boil away and the solution will be too salty. Set the timer and walk away. If you need to prep something else at this juncture (like a neti pot or jar), do so now.</div>
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<li><div class="mwimg largeimage floatcenter"><a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Saline-Solution#/Image:Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-7.jpg" class="image lightbox"><img alt="Make a Saline Solution Step 7" src="http://pad1.whstatic.com/images/thumb/e/e3/Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-7.jpg/670px-Make-a-Saline-Solution-Step-7.jpg" width="670" height="473" class="whcdn" id="563f75a86460d" name="563f75a86460d"/></a></div>
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<div class="step"><b class="whb">Use your solution.</b> The most common use for saline solution is to <a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Sinus-Wash-Using-a-Neti-Pot" title="Do a Sinus Wash Using a Neti Pot" class="mw-redirect">clear the sinuses</a>, <a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Get-Your-Voice-Back" title="Get Your Voice Back">help a sore throat</a> or to rinse contact lenses. Just make sure it's safe and appropriate for whatever means you want to use it for.<ul>
<li>If you're gargling it, wait for it to cool down a tad so it doesn't burn your throat -- it should be very warm -- not searingly hot. Same goes for using it in your nasal passageway or on your skin; you don't want to exacerbate your problem!</li>
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<div class="step_num">4</div>
<div class="step"><b class="whb">Pour the rest into a sterile jar, bottle, or cup.</b> If you have extras that is. Make sure your container is sterile to ensure the solution stays effective. You can be sure it is by boiling it, too.</div>
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